Montanoramas

Montana really deserves its title as “The Big Sky State”. It is truly the promised land for the panoramic photographer.
As I didn’t bring my tripod with me on my trip, I shot only two panoramas on my D800 (the first two below). The rest were shot with the native panorama function on the iPhone 4s. I apologize for the low quality of these panoramas, but I am also an advocate for the notion that ‘the best camera in the world is the one you have with you’.
Click each panorama to see it in its glorious full size and scroll around the view.

The National Bison Range. Those small brown dots on the hill on the far left? Yes, those are bison.

The National Bison Range. Those small brown dots on the hill on the far left? Yes, those are bison.

A spectacular meadow in the middle of the forest on the Idaho-Montana border.

A spectacular meadow in the middle of the forest on the Idaho-Montana border.

Missoula under the setting sun - iPhone pano

Missoula under the setting sun – iPhone pano

Probably the most moving sunset I have ever experienced - iPhone pano

Probably the most moving sunset I have ever experienced – iPhone pano

More soon.

– M

The Great American Outdoors

It has been some time since last I posted any content on this website. I warned that this would happen, but it does not make me fell any less bad about it. This is by the by, however. What matters is that I am, for at least a brief while, back to share my photos with you.

I have picked up my camera only a few times since last I posted, but I still have accrued quite a backlog of things about which I intend to post.

I will start, however, with my most recent activity, because it is by far the most exciting, and involves shooting in a style that I am utterly unfamiliar with (which means that many of the photos suck, sorry about that).

Emily Graslie of The Brain Scoop at the National Bison Range in Montana

Emily Graslie of The Brain Scoop at the National Bison Range in Montana

I flew at short notice across the world to visit Emily Graslie, noted youtuber and museum fiend. If you have not yet seen her show, The Brain Scoop, make sure to check it out at your soonest convenience (by clicking the link). It is fascinating educational content, put out in a funny and easy-to-understand way. Emily is changing the future of museums by bringing their function and behind-the-scenes life to the forefront of the public mind. It is easy to understand why one of the world’s largest and best-respected museums has decided to acquire her.

This was the first time I have visited in America in four years – the first time as an adult – and I had a fantastic time. Emily took me around to see some parts of America that I have only ever seen in movies and read about in books – the parts that it is easy to forget as an expat living overseas, growing up removed and immersed in stereotype.

Some of the landscapes were just incredible. This road up the National Bison Range is one of the most scenic routes I have ever seen. And this comes from someone who lives in Switzerland!

Some of the landscapes were just incredible. This road up the National Bison Range is one of the most scenic routes I have ever seen. And this comes from someone who lives in Switzerland!

I tried to work some landscapes, first with no foreground interest, and then with some added.

I tried to work some landscapes, first with no foreground interest, and then with some added.

I think the foreground interest gives a much better balance to the shot.

I think the foreground interest gives a much better balance to the shot.

This gnarly pine tree grows near the top of the mountain around which the National Bison Range lies.

This gnarly pine tree grows near the top of the mountain around which the National Bison Range lies.

Quite spectacular views.

Quite spectacular views.

More flowers for foreground interest.

More flowers for foreground interest.

A beautifully bleak view. Emily wanted to paint it, and I can understand why. The drama is just wonderful. This is the kind of scene you just don't see in Europe.

A beautifully bleak view. Emily wanted to paint it, and I can understand why. The drama is just wonderful. This is a kind of scene you just don’t see in Europe.

The landscapes were just wonderful to work with. Unfortunately I found myself woefully out of practice. But some of these are alright.
The wildlife in the National Bison Range is incredible. I haven’t seen large mammals up close since last I was in mainland Africa seven years ago, and never have I had a chance to photograph them properly.

Emily took me up to the National Bison Range, where we saw... Bison.

We went to the Bison range and we saw… Bison. Shock shock.

A pronghorn in the National Bison Range

Not just bison though – we saw pronghorns too!

A grazing pronghorn

This particular fellow was grazing right by the road. Which is good, because, as you may remember, my long lens was stolen last year, and the longest I have now is just a 105. And I forgot my teleconverter, because I’m an idiot apparently.

Bighorn sheep resting by the road.

Bighorn sheep resting by the road.

These Bighorns lined themselves up quite nicely for a well-balanced shot.

These Bighorns lined themselves up quite nicely for a well-balanced shot.

The National Bison Range was awesome, and Emily was just a fountain of facts, talking about its founding, and the diorama of taxidermied Bison that was set up by William Temple Hornaday to alert America and the rest of the world to their plight, and finally wound up in the Phillip L. Wright Zoological Museum at the University of Montana, where Emily has volunteered for the last two years.

A few days later we drove up to the border with Idaho. This was beautiful country full of more beautiful landscapes.

A logging path through awesome pine forest.

A logging path through awesome pine forest.

An enormous meadow in the middle of the pine forest.

An enormous meadow in the middle of the pine forest.

In the middle of the meadow, a massive rock.

In the middle of the meadow, a massive rock.

Some more experimentation with foreground interest.

Some more experimentation with foreground interest.

And finally, an adorable ground squirrel.

A ground squirrel

I have two more posts to follow this one: one on the awesome thing we found whilst hiking through the forest, and one on the museum. So stay tuned – I hope to have the first of those up by the end of the week.

~ M

Operation Wallacea in the Field

It is about time that I got to the bit where I talk about the whole reason I really went to Madagascar in the first place, and what I did there. That is what this post is about.

The south side of the main camp area sported a massive tamarind tree, at the base of which the food was cooked.

A view from the top of the cliffs above camp, west and downstream.

Operation Wallacea (www.opwall.com) is a volunteer organisation, which deploys paying volunteers (students; predominantly early undergraduates) on projects around the globe. These are mainly zoological and ecological research projects. Madagascar has two separate sites: one on the west coast, near Mahajanga; and one in the arid south, in a camp called Mahavelo, near Ifotaka, in the commune of Amboasary-Sud. The latter site has now been running for two years, and it was there that I worked this summer.

Just after we arrived, a plague of locusts flew through.

Although the locusts eat a great many crops, the local people also consume these insects. They were thick in the air, and made everything look hazy.

The camp had guards who were employed full time to watch all of the equipment. This is Mia, son of the local Ombiasa, or medicine man.

During the initial setup in the field, we cooked together around these fires. When camp was in full swing however, there was always food on the go to feed everyone.

One of the cooks holds up dinner – a helmeted guinea fowl.

Wild boar roasts on spits around a fire in the dry river bed.

Everything had to be built from the ground up, including a large work station. A thousand planks were ordered and cut for the task. These men had the job of assembling the finished structure.

Before any students arrived, all of the staff members were camped in what later became the dining area.

Presentations were given in the worky-worky, in front of the whole team.

Each site has a variety of research projects running simultaneously. In Mahavelo (Ma-ha-vay-loo), these research projects are (i) lemur research, (ii) reptile research, (iii) bird research, (iv) plant and invasive species research, and (v) social research. Each of the first four teams (social is complicated) is composed of a team leader and usually at least one other, Malagasy, staff member. My role this year was team leader of the reptile research. Christian (pictured below) was my Malagasy counterpart, but he was only working with me for two weeks.

This is Christian, my colleague on the herps team for the first couple weeks in the field.

Sylvio, one of the malagasy lemur team members, on the edge of the cliff where they did most of their research.

There are essentially two ways you can come on the Operation Wallacea adventure (aside from being a staff member); either you can come as a standard volunteer and, in the case of the Madagascar project, stay for four weeks of field work; or you can come as a dissertation student, and stay in the field for six weeks, gathering data for your dissertation (usually undergrad, but occasionally masters). It is the dissertation students who shape the research that each team is conducting, and in many cases, they wind up leading particular parts of the research. Each foreign dissertation student has a Malagasy counterpart. This year, my students were Fay Rickeard and Mahandry Razafimandimby.

Mahandry with the boa

Fay with the boa

Chelsea, a dissertation student studying birds, releases an ashy cuckoo shrike.

The Mahavelo site this year received 29 normal volunteers – a staggeringly large number; at peak, camp contained over 100 people. Every day, the herp team received between six and eight of these volunteers, bringing the total size of the team to between nine and eleven individuals, not including the two guides. Occasionally, we were also joined by the camp doctor, and her guide.

The Operation Wallacea Mahavelo 2012 Team

The reptile research was composed of two independent studies: a behavioural study on two species of iguanid lizard; and general biodiversity assessments, looking at the species found in the forest, and how they are being affected by habitat destruction.
Behavioural research basically involves sitting on a rock, watching lizards for the entire sunny portion of the day.

We studied the behaviour of Oplurus saxicola

Oplurus quadrimaculatus is the other species on which we conducted behavioural studies.

Meanwhile, the biodiversity research was conducted using pitfall traps, tree cover objects, and transects.

Pitfall traps are the main method used for surveying shy terrestrial species, and species which live within the soil itself.

Every ten metres, a bucket is sunk in up to the brim, in order to catch animals which run into and then along the plastic drift fence.

The work was hard, but it payed off; we found a total of 37 species of reptile and amphibian, beating last year’s total by seven species.

In the first week, we caught a ground boa, Acrantophis dumerili.

Although they were very scared at first, the local men got over their fears, and wanted to hold this gorgeous snake.

These are by far the heaviest snakes in the region, and reach well over a metre in length. They are generally placid creatures though, and very enjoyable to hold.

Lygodactylus tolyampae, one of the dwarf geckos.

This was by far the largest of the dwarf geckos that we came across.

I finally caught a giant hognose snake, after having been taunted by various reported sightings for weeks.

One of the smallest snake species in Madagascar, and certainly the smallest captured on this expedition – Heteroliodon occipitalis

These snakes were only found using pitfall traps.

A Paroedura androyensis shows off its incredible camouflage.

These geckos were amongst the most common species in the forest at night.

Androngo trivittatus trilineata, a nearly-legless lizard, slithered into camp on one of the last days in the field.

These lizards are apparently quite common at the base of large tamarind trees, though they live within the soil and are therefore rarely seen.

Rare patches of moister gallery forest harbor flowers and ferns and greenery. These forests are little pockets of diversity and life.

Raketa, or Prickly Pear – Opuntia spp. – lines the riverbed. It is a powerfully invasive species with a very complicated history.

Not herps, but still fun: across the pool by camp, lemurs sit on the cliffs every morning to warm up.

So what happens now? Well, Mahandry and Fay are working on their dissertations. Meanwhile, I am in the process of writing a paper on the herpetofauna of the region. The data is also fed back to conservation organisations, such as WWF, to assist in the formation of effective management plans.

Near the end of the trip, each dissertation student had to give a presentation on their research and findings.

During part of the expedition, we also had a vet on site, doing her own research, and helping out where she could.

A Madagascar Kestrel having its wing bones inspected. It was shot out of a tree with a slingshot from over 30 metres – horrible, but very impressive.

It was in shock for some time. Ultimately, it did not survive the ordeal, as it escaped, got in a fight with another kestrel, and finally drowned in the pool by the side of camp. Such a shame.

Field work was great. The whole team had a fantastic time.
But the rest of the trip was also really exciting, and it is this that will follow in the next blog post.